All about 385 gold: composition, properties, demand in the U.S. and Europe, the status of the sample in Russia, uses, costs and recommendations, how to choose and how to clean

Lowbrow gold is surrounded by myths and speculation that may discourage a potential buyer. But could it be that a low cost does not mean the same performance in terms of quality? Let's look into it.

Sample 385: demand in Russia and abroad

In Russia 385 Sample has not secured the love of the public. Our compatriots, even those who are absolutely far from the jewelry theme, are more likely to choose the 585th carat. It is ubiquitous and for some reason is considered "real gold" in Russia.

This is not the case in Europe. The demand for 385 alloy among the general public is high, and famous jewelry houses willingly use it to create collections.

385kt gold
Gold ring with stone

Significance of 385: composition, properties and branding

385 alloy equals 9 karatam, and the proportion of net gold in the entire precious metal is 38.5%. The remainder is due to various impurities, such as copper, silver, palladium, or zinc.

Because of the low gold content, jewelry made of this alloy is hard and durable. It can be polished even more intensively. However, the alloy is not very resistant to corrosion.

Branding on jewelry The state assay mark is not only an imprint of the numbers corresponding to the mark, but also a drawing that is individual for each producing country. This is the state assay mark, a special mark minted by a state inspectorate. The presence of this mark is proof that the assay mark is at least equal to the one on the mark.

On the territory of Russia, this mark is the profile of a woman wearing a headdress turned to the left.

Meaning of sample 385
385 gold ring

Table of colors of low-grade gold

Since most of the alloy 385 is made up of impurities, they can be combined in various ways to achieve different variations in hue. The table below shows the approximate ratio of precious metals in the alloy that gives a particular color to the piece.

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375 karat gold - as opposed to 585, what is the difference: composition, characteristics, price per gram, selection rules, customer feedback on the quality of the metal
ColorGoldSilverPalladiumCopper
bright red38,5%Up to 2.3%noResidue
red38,5%up to 10.5%noResidue
red-pink38,5%up to 16.5%noResidue
yellow and pink38,5%Up to 25.5%noResidue
Cream38,5%up to 10.5%To 4.1%Residue
Table of colors of low-grade gold
Gold in different shades

Correspondence between the carat and metric systems

If it became necessary to find out how many carats are in a sample designated by the metric systemIt will be convenient to use the table:

Carat system2423221814129
Metric system999958900750585, 583500375, 385

How to identify counterfeit or tarnished gold by yourself

It is not possible to find out the exact sample at home. You can only get an approximate value. For a perfect result, you will need to go to a gold buyer or to a state assay office.

However, you can also check the authenticity of gold at home. There are the following methods:

  1. Use lapis, a remedy containing nitrates silver. Wet the jewelry and run a lapis pencil over it. No dark traces will be left on the real gold.
  2. Try holding your jewelry up to a magnet. Real gold hardly ever attracts, which cannot be said about low-grade metal and gold-plated items.
  3. Carefully run the product over the ceramic surface. No streaks should remain on the surface.
  4. You can try to leave a shallow scratch on the inner surface of the piece. If you can see metal of a different shade, it means that the jewelry is only gilded and is a fake.
  5. Observe the reaction when chlorine gold is applied to the piece. If there is no change, it is a 585 or higher gold. Blackening will indicate a low-grade metal or counterfeit.
How to identify counterfeit or tarnished gold by yourself
Determining counterfeit gold jewelry

Important differences between 385 and 585

  • Price. The price of a piece is directly related to the pure gold contained in the alloy. Therefore, a 385 will be considerably less expensive than a 585, which contains 58.5% of pure gold. precious metal.
  • Durability. Gold is a very soft metal. Consequently, the more it is in the composition of the product, the more unstable it is to external negative factors. 385 gold is characterized by a high level of strength due to the increased content of the ligature.
  • Resistance to corrosion. The 585 is much more resistant to chemical deterioration. 385 gold is susceptible to corrosion to a great extent, so it is highly recommended to wipe the piece after contact with water.
  • Care. Because of its high copper base content, 385 alloy can begin to darken and tarnish over time. It requires regular maintenance, whereas 585 alloy loses its appearance much more slowly.
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Important differences between 385 and 585
385 gold and 585 gold difference

Low 385 gold applications

385 alloy is actively used in jewelry. It is used to create jewelry, various elements of design and interior, souvenirs.

It is often used to create engagement rings. The hardness of the metal contributes to long-term trouble-free wear. The product does not bend or scratch.

Where you can buy 385 gold

Products made of this alloy are sold in specialized jewelry stores, pawnshops, on Internet sites and auctions. It is definitely not a good idea to buy gold off-hand.

Red gold jewelry.
Alloy 385 products

The cost of 1 gram of gold. Calculation of 385 assay price from exchange to pawn shop

The average market price in stores today for a gram of 385 alloy is 1,200 rubles.

If you look at the website of the Central Bank exchange, you can see a slightly different picture: in 2021, the price per gram ranged from 1390 to 1450 rubles.

The pawn shop always accepts jewelry at a price much lower than the market price. 385 gold assay price per gram varies in the region of 400-500 rubles. The highest price for buying up is offered by the capital's pawnshops.

Cost per gram of gold
1 gram of gold

Who's buying up

Pawnshops are engaged in buying up 385-carat jewelry. They are guided by the official rate set by the Central Bank of Russia, but each such institution sets its own price for the purchase.

If you clean and polish the item before visiting the pawnshop, there is a chance of getting more money for it. Also, private pawnbrokers can accept such items.

Why you should be careful with imports

There is a danger for the buyer to encounter counterfeiting when purchasing imports. Imported items are not stamped with any mark that would allow one to know the manufacturer's details. The stamp on such jewelry is three digits denoting the hallmark, without a frame.

We advise to approach the purchase of imports with great care and to check the alloys in jewelry for authenticity.

Cost per gram of gold
Gold Jewelry

Pros and cons of low-grade gold

Low-grade precious metal has positive and negative features. Let's consider them in detail.

The unambiguous pluses include:
low cost;
increased wear resistance, difficult to deform;
Due to the fact that it is easy to experiment with low-grade precious metal, there is a large selection of designer jewelry on the market.
The disadvantages include the following parameters:
Such metal is not suitable as a savings investment;
The alloy tends to darken.

Gold for every day. Tips for Care and Wear of Gold 385

This is the first time you will be wearing a piece of jewellery with the 385 alloy as an exception. Avoid contact with alkaline chemicals, chlorine, cosmetics and solvents. Always remove your rings or wear rubber gloves when cleaning or washing up.

Low-grade precious metal is prone to darkening, so it should be regularly cared for.

Gold Rings
Gold rings on the hand

To clean your jewelry, we recommend using special pastes and wipes, which can be purchased at a jewelry store. You can also use soapy water and ammonia.

Don't forget about polishing. A well-maintained product always looks more advantageous.

For polishing, you can use paste "GOI", after the procedure, rub the product with felt. Also for such purposes will be suitable ordinary natural toothpaste without fluoride and sulfates.

Read also
999 gold and silver: the properties of the highest grade, the formation of prices in the international market, the use of metals, recommendations for choice and care

Video: all about the 385 sample

Customer Reviews

My wife and I bought 385-gold engagement rings almost 20 years ago. We wear them every day and they look as good as new. There are no scratches or dents on the metal. My wife cleans rings sometimes with alcohol lotion and that is the end of ring care. Given that we wear the rings on the "working" right hand, we are very happy with the quality.

Nikita R., Norilsk
Boris
Nikolay L. Stavropol
Victor

We bought a house in the village and found a gold ring when we were sorting out the things left by the previous owners. There used to be a stone in the jewelry, but now there is only an empty nest left. We decided to give it to a pawnshop. They accepted the ring as scrap, it turned out to be 385 gold, and very little money was made from it.

I decided to buy a souvenir statuette as a gift for the anniversary of an acquaintance. The plating is 385 proof. It looks expensive, and cost much less than if a higher proof had been used for the plating. The jubilee was pleased with everything, so my review will be positive.

Roman D., Murmansk
Valentin

Jeweler's comment

Molokanov N.M.
Molokanov N.M.
Jeweler, experience in jewelry manufacturing 26 years.
385 alloy is not popular in our country because it is quite ambiguous. People are interested not only in purchasing jewelry, but also in a stable investment. For these purposes, of course, 385 alloy is not suitable.

I think buyers are also discouraged by the myth that such gold is bound to tarnish. In fact, with proper care nothing will happen to the jewelry. And if it is not taken care of, even the highest grade can lose its appeal.

Our compatriots are used to the fact that quality should cost a lot, but the cost of this alloy is quite acceptable for the average man. It should not be discouraged. There is no need to be afraid to buy such jewelry, on the contrary, they can surprise you with their durability.
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