What is the difference between red gold and yellow 585: the difference, disadvantages and advantages, tips for care and wear

Red и yellow Gold 585 are now the most sought-after jewelry alloys. It seems that these are varieties of the same kind of alloy, but there is a difference in composition, purpose, and price.  

Gold in the jewelry industry and experiments with it

For centuries, mankind has been familiar with this soft, malleable material, which, thanks to its natural properties, is used in many applications. Jewelry production is the most common use of gold. The pure noble metal is not applicable to the production of precious objects, which is why it was necessary to use admixtures of other metals.

There are many different jewellery alloys, samples that differ in composition, properties, and at. The most popular today are decorations of red and classic yellow 585 gold. They perfectly combine quality and affordability.

Gold in the jewelry industry and experiments with it
Red gold ring with stones

Red gold is an alloy that was actively used in Soviet times. European countries refer to such an alloy as low-grade, practically do not use it, it is another thing solar metal. Here, the most popular is the classic gold, even in spite of the complexity of its processing. In Russia, the yellow precious metal is also a timeless favorite, which is highly valued.   

Red and yellow gold: the difference - how to get the corresponding color, the peculiarities of alloys

The main difference between red gold and yellow gold is color. Red alloy contains 58% aurum, 42% ligatures. This assay is the most acceptable for this kind of metal. Depending on the composition, the proportion of ligatures maybe differ color and characteristics of the metal. The red hue of the alloy is given by copper, the more of it in the composition, the richer the tone will be. The color varies depending on the proportion of components used:

  • pink tone - 58.5% aurum, 3% silver, 35.7% copper, 2.8% nickel;
  • bright scarlet - 58.5% aurum, 41.5% copper;
  • red - 58.5% aurum, 33.5% copper, 8% silver.
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Blue gold: history of alloy development, grades, possible compositions and spectrum of blue in jewelry

Each component of the alloy makes it stronger without affecting the quality of the workmanship. The durable metal is used to make intricate patterns, fragile jewelry elements.

Red and yellow gold
Gold rings in different shades

Yellow alloy jewelry can have multiple proofs: 375, 585, 750. From red gold yellow different because it always contains 15 to 20% of silver. Such an ingredient helps to make natural precious metal stronger and more malleable. The 585 alloy consists of 58.5% aurum, 22.5% copper, 8% silver, 8.5% nickel and 2.5% zinc. The pieces are expensive, even though they are most often not inlaid with precious stones. It is more suitable for solemn occasions, as the jewelry is rather fragile.

What is the difference between red gold and yellow 585-proof gold - USSR gold

Copper and a small amount of silver in red gold make it more accessible than the classic yellow precious metal. This type has a distinctive characteristic hue, increased strength and malleability, for which it is valued not only by consumers but also by jewelers.

The metal is also called Soviet, because it used to be used to make absolutely all the jewelry.

The difference between red and yellow precious metals is that the former are originally used for everyday jewelry. The use of 60% noble metals allows the production of jewelry with a low cost, which is increasingly attracting customers. This kind can be easily combined with various stones, which makes it even more exquisite. Due to its high copper content, the red precious metal is more durable, resistant to damage, and suitable for daily wear.

The sunny color of yellow metal

As before, yellow gold is a classic that hasn't lost its relevance over the years. It's a great piece of investingThe precious composition is used to make jewelry for festive occasions and engagement rings. The precious composition is used to make jewelry designed for festive occasions, wedding rings. Our ancestors considered the solar metal a symbol of good luck and wealth.

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Russian gold assay
Assay mark 585

Despite the softness and impracticality of this precious species, the pieces turn out to be particularly exquisite, even without the stone inlay. They can be easily combined with any skin color. The natural inertness of the sunny metal and its low level of impurities means that unlike red gold, jewelry does not react with chemicals or the environment.

Table: Comparison of the properties of red and yellow gold

FeaturesType of gold
Yellow Red
CompositionAurum, copper and silver in equal partsAurum, 2 parts copper, 1 part silver
DemandUsed for the production of classic jewelry that is not burdened with fragile elementsSuitable for making complex patterns, openwork elements
ColorShades of yellow, from bright golden to brownRed, peach, pinkish
PracticalityRarely used for everyday wear because of the high priceCan be worn daily, but does not go well with jewelry in other shades
Samples375, 585, 750375, 585, 750
PriceThe cost of a gram of these metals may vary from 2 to 4.5 thousand rubles. It all depends on the assay, producers and the exchange rate of the Central Bank 
Gold chain
Golden Chain

Metal Matching Stones

Red colored metal is best inlaid:

  • stones with a pink hue: rubies, garnets, spinels, topaz;
  • Inlays with yellow, orange, brown tones: amber, sapphire, topaz;
  • pink, golden, and white pearls.

Yellow metal looks best with:

  • The most popular stones with a greenish tint are emeralds and chrysolite;
  • Transparent stones: zircon, cubic zirconia, sapphire.
  • Stones whiteopal, moonstone.
What is the difference between red gold and yellow 585-proof gold - USSR gold
Ring with stone

Tips for caring for colored gold jewelry

The difference between red gold and yellow gold does not make them significantly different. Any metal 85 samples is undemanding, but still requires certain requirements related to care:

  • The increased amount of copper in the composition affects the appearance of the jewelry. They quickly lose their luster and can darken. To prevent this, it is sufficient to clean the items regularly with a soapy solution and a soft brush.
  • Cleaning jewels with stones is not recommended with a brush. Only a soapy solution will suffice. If you need more drastic care, it is better to entrust it to a master craftsman.
  • It is better to store each piece of jewelry in separate bags or cases. This way, the surface will be more protected from damage and deformation.
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Leaf gold: what it is, composition, grade, production of various forms of leaf gold, range of two standards, unusual use

Pros and cons of red and yellow gold

The advantages of red gold are considered:
strength and durability of products;
affordable cost of the alloy;
unusual color;
products of high quality, rarely undergo deformation;
Combination with many gemstones;
retains its appearance for a long time;
the color of the products is always in fashion.
But there are also disadvantages:
such jewelry is purchased least frequently;
does not go well with all skin tones;
The large amount of ligature in the composition can provoke allergies.
The advantages of yellow gold include:
bright, attractive appearance;
fits all skin tones;
There is an attractive natural shine;
does not require additional polishing;
jewelry can be a good way to invest.
Minuses are considered:
high cost of metal;
brittleness of products;
The ligature may contain nickel, which causes allergies.

The torture of choosing the color of gold jewelry

Buying jewelry, customers are often faced with the problem of choosing the right kinds of gold. Before making a purchase it is better to compare their characteristics, pay attention to the following:

  • For everyday wear, jewelry made of red alloy is considered to be the most practical. Yellow jewelry is more expensive, but at the same time it is more fragile, easily deformed, and therefore is more of a ceremonial option.
  • When buying a wristwatch made of precious metal, it is worth paying attention to colored Compositionwhich is more durable.
  • For wedding rings, the perfect choice would be a solar alloy, which has been a symbol of love and partnership for centuries.
  • Red metal is more malleable, which allows you to create durable jewelry with unusual exquisite elements.

Video: types of gold. This is a must know


I never thought that ordinary gold could have so many analogues. The last time I bought earrings, back in the days when there were only a few shades of yellow. Now there are dozens of different shades to choose from, which makes my eyes diverge. Now the choice of jewelry depends on purpose (for every day or for holidays), financial possibilities, and not on personal preferences, as it was before.

Nadezhda L., Ivanovo
Julia T., Krasnodar

Yellow gold has always been expensive, which is why it was rarely possible to afford jewelry. With the advent of products in red precious metal, everything has become much easier. Every year manufacturers produce entire collections of different jewelry with an attractive cost, which is not a shame to wear every day. When I go to the store to buy a new piece, the first thing I do is go to the showcases of red precious metal.

I hadn't really thought about the difference in hallmarks before. I had always seen that brighter and shinier gold was worth a lot more, but I had never wondered what that had to do with it. It turns out that the more pure the precious metal, the more reflective it is. Jewelry with lower proofs is always a little duller.

Maria P., Leningrad

Jeweler's comment

Molokanov N.M.
Molokanov N.M.
Jeweler, experience in jewelry manufacturing 26 years.
The choice of any jewelry should be taken seriously. To prevent the purchase from becoming a disappointment, it is important to pay attention to the following points:

1. Quality. The assay plays an important role when choosing jewelry. This figure on the jewelry and the tag should coincide. For jewelry intended for everyday wear, 585th carat is optimal.

Information on the label. A bona fide manufacturer indicates on the label weight, sample, alloy composition, manufacturer's information.

3. Appearance. The decoration must not have any flaws. All fasteners, adhesions should be bonded, well sanded.

It is best to buy jewelry from large manufacturers. As a rule, they additionally put their own logo on their items, which indicates the authenticity and quality of the gold.

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