Black gold - a noble metal with an unusual color: composition, manufacturing methods and exquisite jewelry

Russia is known for its rich golden deposits. The yellow cop precious metal has always attracted generations. But it turns out that there is a metal in the world whose value and popularity is significantly higher than that of white и yellow gold.

Black gold: the nature of the metal, its composition and distinctive properties

Pure Gold The only color available is yellow. All other varieties are alloys or coated with rhodium of the appropriate shade. Which means, black gold does not exist in nature, an alloy of the following metals is responsible for the color:

  • 75% pure gold;
  • 15% of cobalt;
  • 10% chrome.

In the production process, the finished composition is oxidized under the influence of high temperature. In this way, the finished products become darker. The alloy is an intermetal, which makes it difficult to rework or melt.   

Black gold - a noble metal with an unusual color
Black gold ring

Characteristics of the black precious metal:

  • Durability: This alloy retains the full properties of the basic component, but is much stronger and more ductile. Rhodium coating provides durability, protecting the product from oxidation and environmental influences. Black items are less susceptible to deformation and external damage.
  • Grade: The finished black alloy is traditionally 750 proof. On the market it is not uncommon to offer 585 hallmark black gold. This means that the jewelry is made of white or yellow precious metal, and the unusual coloring is obtained thanks to a special rhodium coverage.
  • Shades of Blackness. Since there is no black precious metal in nature, its hue can vary depending on how it is processed. The alloy can have shades ranging from light gray to deep black.
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Top 3 ways to get dark precious metal

Black gold, a metal that is becoming sought after for its unusual color, can be obtained by jewelers in several ways. They all differ in a certain level of difficulty, the cost of production, and the quality of the resulting product.  

Real alloy with ligatures

The melting of gold with a mixture of cobalt and chromium gives the metal, which then undergoes oxidation at a temperature of 700-950 degrees. It is cobalt that gives the resulting alloy a black color, and in combination with chromium is responsible for the strength of the material. The final product is poorly processed, which is why its cost is much higher than that of yellow gold.

This is the only manufacturing method that allows you to get a rich black color that will not change over time.

Real alloy with ligatures
Gold alloy ligatures

Traditional yellow metal rhodium plating

Roding is the process of plating yellow gold with a layer of rhodium. The special coating is applied to the pieces using electrodes by electroplating. The resulting layer protects the piece from external influences, increasing the wear resistance of the jewelry.

The disadvantage of this processing method is that the rhodium gradually begins to fade, which means that it must be periodically renewed. In addition, the method does not allow you to predict the shade that the jewelry will receive in the end. 

Amorphous carbon treatment

You can give a darker shade to your jewelry by using amorphous carbon. Carbon is coated on the ordinary precious metal, changing its color. This method of treatment is the most complicated one. It is most often used by jewelers to make wristwatches.

Amorphous carbon treatment
Gold-bearing coal

Innovation in the creation of colored gold

Progress does not stand still; every year, interesting technologies are developed to make life easier for craftsmen. There are relatively new techniques for turning yellow gold into black gold. Each of them has its own peculiarities and requires a certain investment, which, as a result, is reflected in the cost.

Nanotechnology for the creation of metal alloys

This technique involves creating an alloy of copper and potassium sulfide. The result is a heavy, naturally black alloy that is treated at 700°C to produce an attractive luster.

In some cases, the value of the products is raised by adding titanium and iron to the composition. Then the products acquire an unusual olive hue.

Laser metal processing

The method involves the use of special technology. The laser beam absorbs the color of the precious metal, changing it to a darker color. This method requires the use of expensive equipment and special knowledge and skills. The process of making such jewelry is long and time-consuming, which means that not every jeweler can make use of this treatment.

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Advantages of laser soldering at the jeweler
Laser soldering of jewelry

The use of black gold in jewelry, a combination with stones

Black gold, the color of which looks unusual and unique is often used by jewelers in the production of jewelry. Such jewelry perfectly complements the business style. The dark precious metal looks great in combination with stones:

  • diamonds;
  • emeralds;
  • opal;
  • rubies.

At the same time, jewelers rarely inlaid their pieces with inlays, as black can reveal all their flaws. For this reason, for many years, dark jewelry has been set exclusively with black diamonds. 

The assortment of unusual metal becomes varied. Black gold looks great with a brutal men's ring, women's ring, watches, bracelets. Look unique rings with engraved save and save. Such products belong to the minimalism and look great without stones.

Some jewelry houses are experimenting by combining black alloy with platinum and gold in other shades. Such pieces look attractive, but are also quite expensive. In most cases, the alloy is used to produce jewelry for men, emphasizing the high status of the owner.

Ring with a red ruby
Black gold ring with red ruby

Pros and cons of black gold jewelry

The advantages of metal include:
unique appearance;
products made of this alloy are much stronger than those made of other metals;
the alloy is hypoallergenic, not capable of provoking health problems.
The disadvantages are:
The price of such products can be quite high;
Modest assortment - not all jewelry stores are willing to sell such expensive goods;
scratches, scuffs, chips on the black color become immediately noticeable.

How Black Gold is Produced in Russia

Russia is a country with large reserves of gold. Metallocop is available in different regions for the most part to large companies that can afford to make the real alloy. At the same time, jewelers have learned to make money from unusual jewels using available processing methods.  

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Now there are ways to make a special spraying on the natural metal. This is how you can get the jewelry you want, and save significantly on its manufacture. When you buy quality jewelry from jewelers, you can rarely tell the difference between it and a black gold alloy. The only thing that can give away a treated piece is an attractively low price.

It is important to remember that in Russia, dark alloy is proprietary, and the process of obtaining it is quite expensive and inaccessible to many jewelers. This means that dark metal obtained the "right" way will be very expensive.  

Gold in the river
Gold mining on the river

Buying real black gold safely

Buy such an unusual jewelry and do not regret it is best in large outlets, jewelry store chains with a good reputation. When examining jewelry, you should study the branding on the product, passports and certificates.

Of course, the range of online stores is more attractive, but at the same time there is an increased risk of overpaying or getting a fake. In such a case, the jewelry is unlikely to mean much and be worth much, but it will be problematic to get your money back for it.

In the Russian Federation, according to the law, it is impossible.

Dark alloy jewelry is made in large factories and small jewelry workshops. Most often, those ornaments that are made by hand are valued correspondingly high. Inexpensive dark alloy can be purchased at pawnshops or from the hands of those wishing to sell their jewelry.

Black gold: the nature of the metal, its composition and distinctive properties
Black gold is durable and hard-wearing

Pricing factors, cost per gram

A high price is always an indication of the quality of the pieces. Factors affecting the price of nielloed gold:

  • the method of production: the cost of the alloy and the rhodium plating is significantly different;
  • price set by the Central Bank per 1 gram yellow gold;
  • assay of the constituent precious impurities;
  • The presence or absence of stones, pearls, or other metals in the product;
  • The way jewelry is made: handmade items are more expensive;
  • costs associated with the production process, delivery of goods to the place of trade.

The average cost of one gram of dark gold in Russia is calculated taking into account the 999 and black metal rates as follows:

999 gold accounting price according to the Central Bank * metal share in the alloy

Black engagement rings
Black Gold Engagement Rings

For example, the dark 750 gold respectively on the Russian market will cost:

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 3,808 rubles. * 0,750 = 2,856 rubles.

The price of 999 proof, rub.The market price of 750 samples today, rub.Scrap price of precious metal, rubles.Price in jewelry salons, rubles.
3808285625703998 

How to choose dark metal jewelry

Since nielloed gold does not exist in nature, but is an alloy of human hands, you need to be able to check its authenticity. The value of the finished piece will depend on the method of obtaining the valuable color. Silver and gold plated with rhodium are valued less than pure alloy. They also differ in quality and properties. It is worth paying attention to the following details:

  • Natural alloy is always marked with a 750 proof: items made of other metals coated with rhodium will have lower proofs;
  • When plating metal with rhodium, the dark color can last a long time, but the coated items may have flaws - weak coloring in hard-to-reach areas, uneven shade. This is especially noticeable on items such as crosses, pendants or earrings.

Before you make a purchase, you should check the certificates and passports confirming the origin and taste of the metal.

Black Gold Jewelry
Black Gold Ring

Proper care of dark gold jewelry

Alloy is much stronger than other metals, but even it can look ugly if handled carelessly, without proper care. It is possible to preserve the appearance of an unusual product by observing these simple recommendations:

  • Alloy does not like water: before going to the pool or gym, it is better to remove the jewelry.
  • It is necessary to limit the contact of jewelry with chemicals.
  • To store black metal, buy a separate case: chains, bracelets and other small items should be stored straightened out, avoiding kinks.
  • Do not leave jewelry in the kitchen or bathroom: high humidity can reduce the natural shine.
  • Cleaning The items are to be cleaned only with a weak soapy solution. It is allowed to wipe the elements only with soft cloths. The use of brushes can cause scratches, scuffs, which will spoil the appearance.
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Reviews

I have been wearing a black gold ring for more than 3 years. The jewelry always attracts attention, emphasizes the image. During the time of wearing there are small scuffs, but they are almost imperceptible.

Veronica S.
Victoria
Anna R., Novosibirsk
Anna

I used to buy white or yellow gold pieces, but when I heard about black, I was very surprised. The elegant earrings, without which it was impossible to leave the store, caught my attention. I bought them, though the price was much higher than the analogues of the usual precious metal.

Very pleased with the watch in dark and white metal. It looks unusual and stylish. But you have to wear it carefully, any damage on the case immediately becomes noticeable. And after constant contact with water the surface became less shiny.

Sergey Ogorodnikov, Chelyabinsk
Boris

Video: Charcoal Black Gold Jewelry

Jeweler's comment

Molokanov N.M.
Molokanov N.M.
Jeweler, experience in jewelry manufacturing 26 years.
Ask a question
It is quite difficult to make alloy jewelry without the necessary skills. In addition, it is not always possible to buy the necessary equipment. That is why jewelers prefer to apply a temporary rhodium plating. This kind of jewelry is popular among black gold fans who are not willing to pay a fortune for costume jewelry. Jewelry has the same properties and attracts attention with its color, but the cost is significantly lower. When the color starts to fade, the black plating can always be renewed.

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