Green gold: possible alloys compositions, state standards, peculiarities of choice and care of electrum

Gold has always been considered one of the noblest precious metals. Nowadays, few people can be surprised by yellow, white or even rose gold. Однако немногие знают, что существует еще такая разновидность, как зеленое золото.  Статья содержит информацию о том, как создается такой драгоценный металл, какие стандарты существуют, как распознать подделку.

Green gold - what is it, history of creation

Green gold (the second name is electrum) - an alloy of metal containing impurities of several elements: gold, silver, copper.

The intensity of the emerald hue depends on the proportion of the added metals.

Precious metal can be native or made by human hands.

The island of Crete is considered the home of the alloy. It was there that the most ancient jewelry made of electrum, more than three thousand years ago, was discovered. Coins made under the Lydian King Croesus, the Scythian pectoral of the 4th century BC, inlaid with diamonds and inlays, precious earrings, chains, and rings of the ancient inhabitants of the Mediterranean have been preserved to this day.

Green gold is one of the most unusual alloys
Green gold ring with stones

Alloy composition and shades from olive to grass

The hue depends on the proportions of silver and copper in the precious metal. The more copper impurity is present, the more pronounced the contrast will be yellow and green shades.

Gold, silver, and copper in the ratio of 75/15/10 percent, respectively, give the alloy its rich color. This proportion is considered a classic. It is widely used by jewelers. The finished products look the most natural and attract many connoisseurs.

The proportion of gold, silver and copper content in electrum yellow with a greenish cast can be put as 58.5/29.5/12 percent. This is also popular with customers, but it has a low strength and can start to crumble over time.

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Alloy composition and shades from olive to grass
Engagement ring gold

Green Gold Grade according to GOST

The standard in Russian jewelry is considered to be 585-я or the 750th sample. There are two varieties of each samples. They differ in terms of alloy content.

SampleGold%Silver%Copper %Metal shade
58558,541,5Slight or no amountgreen
58558,529,512Yellow with a greenish tinge
75075,624,5not availabledeep green
75075,514,510Yellow with a green tint
Green Gold Electrum
Green gold bullion

Required properties of electrum

In order for the metal to be workable, it must have certain characteristics. There are several requirements that electrum must meet:

  • Inertness to other substances. The alloy must not be susceptible to oxidation by oxygen. It is also important that the components do not react with other chemicals. Otherwise, the product will quickly lose its external appeal. That is why when you buy jewelry made of electrum, you should pay attention to the fact that its composition does not contain rubidium. It easily changes its structure when exposed to air, which will cause damage to the entire piece;
  • the plasticity of the material. It is important that the metal from which the jewelry will be made can easily take the necessary shape;
  • durability. The metal must be resistant to external mechanical action. The product of electrum, which does not meet this requirement, will be very fragile, easily destroyed by the slightest blow;
  • Hypoallergenicity of the alloy. Green gold jewelry should not cause irritation, itching or other allergic reactions in their possessor. For this reason, cadmium was excluded from the alloy composition.

Metals - ligatures that turn electrum into a toxic material

In order to reduce the cost of the product, some manufacturers add cadmium to it. In Russia and most European countries such a move is banned, but there are states that still use it.

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The exclusion of cadmium from the elements of the electrum alloy is due to the increased toxicity of the element. This means that when exposed to oxygen, it releases vapors that are harmful to the human body. Cadmium can accumulate in the body, eventually reaching a critical level for life and health. Not only the wearer of jewelry containing this substance is exposed to harmful effects, but also the jeweler who is working on the piece.

Ligature and ligature gold
Ligature gold

Manufacture of exotic green gold jewelry: pros and cons of the noble metal

The main advantage of products from electrum can be called their unusual appearance. In Russia, this precious metal has not yet enjoyed wide popularity, so the owner of decorations green gold is sure not to go unnoticed.

The main disadvantage is brittleness. This is a characteristic of all items made of alloys of several substances. This is a characteristic of all jewelry made of several alloys.

In addition, compared to the classic yellow goldThe cost of electrum products is higher. This is due to the fact that the process of working on such alloys is more time-consuming. It takes a considerable amount of time.

Making exotic green gold jewelry
Green gold ring

The price of one gram of green gold is higher than the price of yellow gold.

Rates for green gold is higher than for yellow or white gold. This is due to the fact that the metal in Russia is still considered rare and exotic, and its processing requires considerable expense.

Cost of 750 proof (per gram) in rublesCost of 585 hallmark (per gram) in rubles
Book value at the rate of the Central Bank of the Russian Federation3 9003,600 rubles.
Market value2 3002 000
Buying4 0003 500
Scrap2 0001 600

The data are based on an analysis of the Moscow precious metals market. In the regions, purchase and sale prices are different. You can buy jewelry made of electrum at a higher price. The final cost is influenced by the labor and time required for the work on the product, as well as the intermediaries' margin.

Read also
Gold colors: types, classification, palette of colors, how the color of jewelry depends on them, the influence of proof and carat
Electrum ring
Electrum with a greenish hue

Fake colored gold. Rules for choosing jewelry with a green hue

In Russia, electrum is counterfeited as often as other varieties precious metals. Professional jewelers advise to follow a few rules when buying jewelry:

  • Check the branding and the assay (the original can only be 585th or 750th);
  • Check the connecting fasteners. On counterfeit products, it is at the joints where the coating comes off;
  • magnet check. If it attracts the product, then it is made of ordinary steel;
  • iodine test. The reagent is dripped on a part of the piece, observing the chemical reaction. If the drop of iodine did not lighten, and after drying remains the same dark, then the jewelry is not fake;
  • Precious metal is heavier than fakes. This should be kept in mind when checking the authenticity of a piece. However, this method only works when evaluating massive items;
  • Buy products of famous brands in the salons with a good reputation. In addition, experts strongly recommend not to buy jewelry made of precious metals in Internet stores. Based on the image on the monitor it is very difficult to determine the authenticity of the product, and to return it to the seller, according to Russian law, will be impossible.
Green Gold Rings
Rules for choosing jewelry with a green hue

Care and Storage of Green Gold Jewelry

Electrum is more fragile than the classic yellow gold pieces. It requires special care. It is undesirable to wear it all the time, as it will be almost impossible to secure the metal from negative external influences (falls, blows, strong compression).

After removing the jewelry, it is advisable to wipe the item with a soft, dry cloth. The jewellery should only be cleaned with a mild soap solution or ammonia. Always keep your jewelry in its case, soft pouch or box.

Application of the therapeutic properties of gold.
Gold jewelry storage

Techniques for producing green gold in other countries

The Russian technology of making jewelry out of electrum is the same. Only the proportions of chemical elements added vary. Foreign jewelers have advanced much further and surprise the whole world with unusual experiments.

  1. Relief against impurities from British scientists. One of the latest developments of jewelers from Great Britain is the rejection of silver and copper impurities in the making of jewelry of this kind. The green effect is achieved through various combinations of reliefs, convexities and depressions, and their size. The precious material processed in this way changes its light-reflecting properties, due to which the human eye begins to catch shades of green in it.
  2. Bright colors from the American brand "BlaskHills". The company produces precious jewelry with rich, deep colors. This effect is achieved because the jewelers reduce the percentage of gold to 10-12 carats (lower than that of green 585 gold), increasing the admixture of other elements.
  3. Potassium instead of silver in American green alloy technology. American jewelers are known for their experiments with the content of gold in electrum, as well as adding other impurities to it. For example, foreign manufacturers often use potassium instead of silver, which radically changes the formula of the substance.
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Techniques for producing green gold
Melting precious objects

Why green gold is not in demand in Russia

This is primarily due to the high price of jewelry made of electrum. In addition, the alloy is more fragile than other types of precious metals. The combination of these factors restrains the demand of Russian consumers for green gold.

Video: unique exotic jewelry made of precious gold alloys

Jeweler's comment

Molokanov N.M.
Molokanov N.M.
Jeweler, experience in jewelry manufacturing 26 years.
There is no doubt that green gold makes the image of its owner unique and attractive. However, do not forget that such a product requires good care, as well as careful attitude. Particularly care should be taken not to expose the accessory to physical influences. Then it will last for many years.
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